The Vitals:
the spot: Reese Bros Barbecue 906 Hoefgen Ave, San Antonio, TX 78210
the eats: The Verde Burger
the bucks: $13
the full nelson: A craft barbecue take on a San Antonio burger tradition
Back in 2022 I interviewed Nick Reese about a smoked burger he was doing at his eponymous barbecue restaurant. It was when I would learn about a San Antonio phenomenon called a bean burger.
A San Antonio bean burger starts with patty(a beef patty mind you NOT one made of beans) that is topped with Fritos(or some corn chip), queso, refried beans and onions. Thanks to this thread on Reddit, I found eleven restaurants serving this burger but the burger phenomenon is still somewhat under wraps.
Maybe this post will change all that.
In this current era of fourth wave barbecue where pitmasters are craftsmen, at times with extensive culinary backgrounds, Reese Bros fits right in along with other noted San Antonio barbecue restaurants like 2M Smokehouse and Two Bros Barbecue(featured on Cheap Eats). I only tried the burger but I will definitely be back to get a big platter of meats by the pounds and sides.
Being my first time trying a San Antonio Bean Burger, I might have peaked. With at least 10 more versions to try, my assumption might be premature, but just taking into consideration the upgrade from traditional corn chips to a tostada fried in beef tallow, Reese Brothers Barbecue ain’t messing around.
The patty itself is a substantial half pound of ground brisket trim, seasoned with their 2:1 black pepper to salt brisket rub. Smoked and then seared, the patty is nestled on a brioche bun, and topped with a slice of white American cheese.
Where things get really interesting are the signatures of a San Antonio Bean Burger. As mentioned, the “corn chip element” is covered with a beef tallow fried tostada. The beans are refried pinto, cooked with onions, tomato, poblano peppers and okra, which gives the bean element a stew like mouthfeel.
Lastly the salsa element is covered with a “salsa doña” which reminds me of a nod to Taco Deli’s creamy jalapeño salsa, though the actual source is Sonora Mexico.
Nick Reese credits his head chef and Sonoran native, Gabe Perez for this salsa touch. It really sets the burger off. While the salsa gives the burger bite, the kick comes from an admiration for San Antonio Bean burgers both Nick and his brother Elliot grew up with. You gotta love a burger style to upgrade it to this level.
Just make sure you go on a Thursday or a Friday, that’s when the burger is served. Occasionally they run the burger for a special price of $10, but I’d gladly pay the full price of $13. If Cheap Eats was airing today, we would definitely hit up Reese Brothers barbecue and certify it some straight up Bang for your Burger Buck.
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