The Vitals: the spot: Corner Bistro 331 W. 4th St. NY, NY  10014 the eats: Bistro Burger, Cheeseburger, Hamburger the bucks: $10.75-$14.75 the full nelson: an NYC burger institution that feels like home

The first time I dined at Corner Bistro in NYC, I returned 12 hours later. It was technically the next day but I had not gone to bed. The joys of hanging out in New York City when you're 26 years old. Corner Bistro is one part awesome "dive bar" and the other is an NYC burger institution. Like any spot that has drawn accolades over the years, there are also the detractors. And while I generally disagree, it should be noted the burger cooking game has grown leaps and bounds since I fell in love with Corner Bistro in 2003. Yet like the same night I found I found a Wilco song on the jukebox called "I'm always in love", I am still in love with Corner Bistro.

Once upon a time in West Village

I've never lived in New York City, which has been one of my great regrets in life. I think I make up for that by visiting the city of eight million stories at least once a year for the last 25 years. The sight of Corner Bistro from the street is a welcomed one. Something that for me is a reminder of what the neighborhood once was: bohemian, affordable, different. One of my last visits to West Village took me for a loop. I saw an old guy decked out in Neiman Marcus/Saks 5th Avenue gear. Soft leather shoes with tassels, silk slacks; clothes that aren't unexpected to find in Manhattan but a sign that West Village was looking a little too cush for my tastes.

a sight for sore eyes

Then I walk into Corner Bistro and I'm back in 2003. That same beast of a burger, shot glasses of whiskey and cheap long neck domestics beers stand at the ready. It's still NYC and all of this comes at a price but this is as close to a dive bar as I'm gonna get while hanging in this part of Manhattan. Oh and the burger? A hulking thick half pound of beef, broiled in a salamander and cooked to order. That's the star of the show. The bun comes out of a bag, pickles out of a jar, the onion is sliced wonderfully thick, lettuce and tomato are there if you want it.

A taste of old NYC for $15

When I first went to Corner Bistro, I want to say the burger clocked in around $8 for bacon and cheese. Times have changed. While $10.75 for the hamburger sans cheese and bacon sounds like a reasonable deal in 2021, I think the burger needs the cheese and bacon for a salty punch. This patty is thick and some detractors have called the burger underseasoned so adding some cheese and bacon would be a wise move. By the time you factor in the drinks, and I do mean drinks in the plural sense, you will have laid out some coin for this burger experience. Welcome to NYC pal. I love me a burger that fills me up. I love a thick burger cooked to temp. This is the kind of burger I grew up having in the Pubs/Bars of the Midwest. For these reasons I have a strong affinity for Corner Bistro. I do think that when I read more critical reviews of Corner Bistro I have to keep in mind that the burger world has improved. We have come to expect more from our burgers and for our bucks. I mean, Corner Bistro, a dive burger by NYC standards is a $15 affair.

"It's a drag I snag, I'm always in love"

That's a line from the Wilco song I played on the jukebox when I went to Corner Bistro back in 2003. I guess I will just forever be hooked at CB. Around 3:30am on a cold December night in 2003 I fell in love with a burger and a place. And almost 20 years later, nothing has changed. If you can get behind the simplicity of a thick burger cooked temp, slapped between a hamburger bun from a bag and tolerable produce plus a couple beers with shot, you might yourself in love with Corner Bistro too. And stay in love for the next 20 years.    

The Vitals: the recipe: Smoked Lebanese Lamb Shoulder the smoker: Traeger Ironwood 885 the time: an 8 hour cook for a whole bone in lamb shoulder the full nelson: don't let pulled pork hog the spotlight: lamb rules!

Recently I was treated to some spectacular lamb from my friends at the American Lamb Board. I was also a guest for a cooking demo with Chef Matt Abdoo from Pig Beach BBQ in NYC. Matt is half Lebanese so barbecues growing up meant eating lots of lamb. I also share a fondness for childhood barbecues with lamb and back in the day I was known for cooking whole legs of lamb, bone and all, at barbecues or a really any party where I could sneak into a kitchen. Unlike yours truly, Chef Abdoo is a serious chef, having worked in some of the fanciest kitchens around like Del Posto in NYC. He also heeded the call to the smoke, opening up Pig Beach BBQ in NYC. In turns out he found his stride in barbecue as Pig Beach has now three locations, including one in Florida.

Make that rub

With this level of chef at the helm, I had to make his recipe demo for myself. Chef Abdoo starts the process off by making a special rub for the lamb. If all the above spices are too much for you then buy yourself some Cavender's seasoning, which is basically what the above spices become. But you know I had to make it right.

Ingredients for Greek Rub

• 6 tbsp paprika
• 1/4 cup Kosher Salt
• 1/4 cup crushed oregano
• 2 tbsp onion powder
• 2 tbsp garlic powder
• 1 tbsp coarse ground black pepper
• 1 tbsp ground coriander
• 1 tsp chili powder
• 1 tsp mustard powder
• 1 tsp dried thyme
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp celery seed
• 1 tsp dried rosemary
• 1 tsp coriander
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp all spice

Mix all ingredients well and reserve in jar. I omitted a seasoning, Accent, which I haven't even thought of since the 1980s. Also I reached for an Italian herb blend in lieu of the thyme, oregano(1/4 tsp), and rosemary. You'll see coriander on their twice, the first refers to a coarse ground version. I just used what I had. For the 1/4 cup crushed oregano I subbed Mexican Oregano.

Za'Atar anyone?

The Greek rub is just the half of it. You'll also need Za'Atar, a Middle Eastern herb mix which contains Sumac, Sesame seeds, Cumin and a variety of other herbs depending on the particular region. I picked up a Lebanese version from a local Middle Eastern market. It was my first time using the stuff and you know what? I'm hooked. It's a great addition to hummus and does wonders on chicken.

Let it rain

If you've made that rub than you have a lot, even for a 10+ pound lamb shoulder. TBH I don't know what my shoulder weighed as it was sent as a gift but expect a hefty cut if you get a bone in one. Regardless be generous with both the rubs. Spices only go flat with time so make it rain. I did my rub overnight but Chef Abdoo said even as little as 15 minutes will do the trick.

The Cook: Part 1

So get your smoker or oven set to 250 degrees. I placed my shoulder in my Traeger, stuck a probe in and let it cook till it hit an internal temp of 170 degrees. That took about 3.5 hours. After that it's time to wrap.

The Cook: Part 2

Chef Abdoo instructed us to wrap the shoulder in plastic wrap and then heavy duty aluminum foil. Now plastic wrap in an oven or grill sounds like a bad idea but it's not the first time I've had professional chefs advocate for it. Suzanne Goin does so when braising a brisket in an enameled oven. I took the leap of faith and did the same, though I texted Chef Abdoo to double confirm. Also after I wrapped the lamb shoulder in plastic wrap, I wrapped the lamb up in foil several times as the bones began to punch through the foil. Also I placed the whole thing in a baking pan to make sure I captured all the juices. Back into the Traeger the lamb went till I hit an internal temp of 203 degrees, about another 3.5 hours.

It's gonna be a juicy

The plastic wrap didn't melt, thank goodness. And it did the job because there was plenty of juice. To be honest, getting the wrap and the foil off was a little tricky + messy. I may reach for the peach paper next time. Regardless I freed the roast and let it rest in all it's juicy glory.

And on the seventh day, let the lamb rest

I should add that I let the lamb rest for a good 30 minutes before I unwrapped it. This is critical for the meat stay juicy after you pull it. Keep some paper towels handy.

Insanely juicy

It was glorious whenI pulled the lamb apart. So tender, the bones came off without effort and event the fatty sinewy parts broke up well. There's a section in a bone in lamb shoulder with the neck that one could remove because it's super chewy but I left it in. My inner Bengali said "eat it all".

Let's talk sauce

So of course one should eat this in a pita or lavash bread. Like having pulled pork in a bun, the right bread helps further the appreciation of such juicy and tender meat. I made some hummus to smear on the pita from a recipe I shared last year. I also made Chef Abdoo's NYC White Halal cart sauce. That is a mix of mayo, yogurt, lemon juice, white vinegar, garlic powder plus some salt and pepper. Chef Abdoo likes to add dried dill, I opted for a dash of this: Cherchies Lemon and Dill seasoning. This is a recipe I prefer to drain my spice cabinet vs add to it. PS - I hit that pita with a little sriracha like the Halal Carts in NYC do. One of those things that isn't 100% traditional back in the day but it damn sure makes sense.

Full recipe for the NYC Halal Cart sauce here:

Ingredients

• 3/4 cup Mayo (I used Duke's)
• 1/2 cup Greek Yogurt
• 2 tbsp white vinegar
• 1 tsp lemon juice
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tsp pepper
• 1 tsp sugar
• 1/2 tsp dill or Cherchie's Dill seasoning
• 1/2 tsp garlic powder

One of the best things I have ever made

In my 20s I lived off of shawarma plates with hummus, tahini, garlic paste and whatever accoutrements I would find at temples like Zankou Chicken in LA. This meal is that meets grilling at home, or in this case smoking at home. If you enjoy Middle Eastern flavors and like smoking meats, this recipe is a must and so worth the time. One of the best meals, maybe the best meal I have made on the Traeger.    

The Vitals: the spot: Grace Meat + Three 4270 Manchester road St. Louis MO 63110 the eats: Fried Chicken, Mashed Potatoes, Cornbread, Collard Greens, Deviled Eggs, Fried Green Tomatoes the bucks: $10-$15 a person the full nelson: refined classic Southern food with a 21st century mindset

A few weeks ago I found myself back in St. Louis to see some old friends, my old baseball stadium and remind myself that the city with the Arch is and always will be my hometown. It's been 25 years since I could call myself a local and the restaurant scene has certainly changed, and for the better. Grace Meat + Three is probably as fine an example of how the city's food scene is evolving with the times while still being totally St. Louis: straight up comfort food that's affordable and especially in the case of Grace, commands the respect of discriminating palates, like yours truly.

A chef driven success

Chef Rick Lewis is the man behind Grace and his resume reads like a list of St. Louis restaurant young guns. Being someone who doesn't get back often enough, I have never heard of Quincy Street Bistro or Southern, but they are both restaurants I'm adding to my watch list. At Southern, Chef Lewis fried up yardbird to great acclaim. As of my last visit, he definitely hasn't lost his touch.

A little secret about fried chicken

I've been to Grace Meat + Three on two separate occasions, both times I got the chicken. The first was in early 2020, before the pandemic. We ordered chicken, ribs, plenty of sides and lots of drinks. I had a blast that visit, bought some merch and enjoyed the food but wasn't blown away. This most recent visit? I was BLOWN away. And it was because we waited a long time for the fried chicken. 20 some years ago I ordered fried chicken combo to go from a downtown Los Angeles eatery called Soul Folks. Their nickname was Slow Folks because they took forever for the food to come out of the kitchen. You know why I put up with Slow Folks aka Soul Folks? Their fried chicken rocked. Another time, also in Los Angeles, specifically South Los Angeles, I ordered fried chicken from a place called Harold's Meat + Three. That also took a long time. The fried chicken was transcendent even though the sides were straight outta the cafeteria. Grace Meat + Three also took a long time. And the fried chicken was simply tremendous. Crisp exterior with juicy flavorful meat. Like flavor to the bone. I wish I had fried chicken like this in Austin.

Mashed Potatoes: fried chicken's best friend

Growing up, I had a soft spot for Church's fried chicken. Their chicken was so darn crisp and I preferred it over the Colonel aka Kentucky Fried Chicken. But the Colonel had my fav mashed potatoes and gravy, I mean I could have lived off that stuff. I can't imagine getting fried chicken without getting mashed potatoes and my trips to Grace would reflect this tradition. I like to take my time taking pics of food and editing them but listen: the mashed potatoes at Grace are as good as they look.

Mac 'n Cheese: for kids of all ages

Grace Meat + Three does a mac n cheese that appeals to the grown ups and the kids. From previous reviews I've read that Chef Rick uses both Velveeta and Gouda cheese. One of those combos that keeps the dish familiar and grounded while still giving it the old farm to table/fine dining technique try. Don't skip this if you have crowd but be prepared to take some of this rib sticking side home.

Pass the cornbread

After hosting a couple baking competition shows I can spot a good baked good. I enjoyed the cornbreads plenty at Grace Meat + Three. Like any great bake, well browned exterior and edges are clutch as is paring the sweet with a contrast kick of salt. Grace lists flake salt in their cornbread description and that's a sign that they are taking their cornbread seriously.

FGT: Fried Green Tomatoes

I always feel compelled to order fried green tomatoes and I starting to wonder why. I suppose they seem like the right kinda dish to order when you're going whole hog with a Southern fried chicken feast. My fav part of this dish was the smoky dipping sauce. Take it or leave it is my call here.

Which came first: the chicken or the deviled egg?

Technically it was the deviled egg. I love me some deviled eggs and Grace did my craving justice. It seems excessive to me to eat chicken and eggs in one sitting. It feels like I'm trying to eradicate a species by eating it at every stage of life. These are the things I think about while indulging in deviled eggs and fried chicken.

Family friendly + foodie worthy

The first time I went to Grace Meat + Three I was simply looking for something easy that checked all the boxes while not skimping on the food. In general Midwest restaurants, heck the Midwest, is pretty family friendly. Still, for a place like Grace Meat + Three to offer counter ordering, a full bar and killer food worthy of a 30 min wait . . .  this is a perfect storm of a restaurant and in the case of a St. Louis expat like me, a full blown case of restaurant jealousy. Grace Meat + Three is a score for quality fried chicken with a laid-back yet hip set up. I suppose I should dock points for the fried chicken coming out kinda late. But that's exactly why I love the place so much. Great fried chicken is always worth the wait. And I can't wait to get back to Grace Meat + Three again.

Lamb Vindaloo: a go to recipe

Like a lot of you, my first experience with Lamb Vindaloo was at an Indian restaurant. My parents immigrated from Bangladesh and our lamb curries were just called . . . lamb curries. Indian restaurants in the US are notoriously monotonous with their carbon copy menus, lunch buffets and decor. Which is more a reflection of the American appetite for Indian/South Asian food for that "ethnic option". Well times are changing. Diners are becoming more adventurous and the desire for "authenticity" brings me to sharing this ridiculously good lamb vindaloo. If you are remotely a fan of lamb curry, you're gonna be very happy.

It's all about the spices

Spices drive curry recipes. Sure there are curry recipes whose signature comes from the addition of butter and cream or spinach, but in every curry lies a certain combination of spices. Vindaloo is no different. Out the gate let's talk about the spices you will need:

Spices

• 1/4 tsp mustard seeds
• 2 tbsp Kashmiri chili powder
• 1 tbsp + 1 tsp cinnamon powder (divided)
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 1 tbsp whole black peppercorns
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 4 whole cloves
• 1/2 tsp turmeric powder

I got all my spices as a generous gift from my pal Meherwan Irani's Spicewalla. Chef Irani was featured in Cheap Eats Atlanta, is a James Beard Award semifinalist and is a force for making Indian food something to really respect in the US. In fact this Lamb Vindaloo is essentially his recipe with a few modifications from yours truly. If you're interested in getting these spices: click here. Now back to the Vindaloo . . .

Ingredients

• 2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder
• 2 cups diced white onions
• 6 garlic cloves
• 2" piece of fresh ginger
• 1/4 cup white vinegar
• 2 tbsp brown sugar
• 2 tsp salt
• 2-3 small tomatoes
• 4-6 jalapeños
• 2 cups water

Step 1: Marinate

Cut the lamb shoulder up into 1.5" pieces and place in a bowl. Toast the spices(fennel, peppercorn, cumin seed, and cloves) in a hot dry pan until the spices become fragrant(use your nose, don't let the cumin burn!). Add the spices along with salt, turmeric, garlic, ginger,  1/2 of the vinegar, ground cinnamon, and 1 tablespoon of Kashmiri Chili powder into a blender or food processor and process till you make a paste. Pour over lamb and marinate for a couple hours. I went for 3 hours, the original recipe calls for up to 6. Honestly I would try for overnight if I had the time. *note I initially tried a food processor but was unable to grind the spices so I switched to my Vitamix blender. I added a bit more liquid so my marinade was not quite a paste but worked regardless.

Step 2: Sear

Preheat your oven to 300 degrees. Heat a couple tablespoons of canola oil in a heavy bottomed ovenproof pot until almost smoking. Sear the lamb in batches on all sides and set aside. Don't rush this and overcrowd the pot. Your patience will be rewarded. Trust the process.

Step 3: Cook the onions

After the lamb has been seared, add the chopped onions. Cook them until they are well browned, being careful not to let the onions burn. Reduce the heat and add more oil as needed. This usually takes me about 10 minutes.

Step 4: add the heat

Meherwan's recipe calls for dried whole Kashmiri chili peppers that give the Vindaloo a deep red hue. I didn't have those so I subbed in some jalapenos from my garden. I used everything I got, which when minced probably up, added up to about a 1/3 of a cup. Also I kept the seeds in. Vindaloo is usually one of the spicier curries on the menu and lamb can take the heat. If I had to spitball a measurement here: two serrano peppers, three large jalapeño peppers.

Step 5: add some tang(tomatoes)

Now I deviated a bit from the original recipe here. I added tomatoes which was not in Chef Irani's recipe. I've seen recipes use them but I can see how it's not a game changer. Especially if you add a tangy tamarind paste like original recipe calls for. Again, an ingredient I did not have on hand but when life hands you lemons, make vindaloo with tomatoes.

Step 6: bring back the lamb

I toss the tomatoes around a bit and let them soften. Then bring the lamb back, toss that around and bring in the Kashmiri chili. In hindsight I would have added more than the two tablespoons allotted just to pick up more of that fiery red in the finished product. Add the water. Then pop it in a 300 degree oven for 2-2.5 hours.

Step 7: make the sauce

After two hours, check the lamb to see if it is tender, mine was almost fall apart after two and half. Remove the lamb and set aside. Carefully spoon everything left in the pot into a blender, remember it's hot! Blend to your desired consistency. I like to start slow and gradually up the speed. Return the sauce back to the pot. Add the brown sugar, the rest of the vinegar and salt to taste. Finally, bring the lamb back. I should add that the original recipe calls for jaggery, an unrefined cane sugar but I uses brown sugar in its place. Regardless, the sugar would be critical in balancing off the heat. *note the next time I do this Im going to check the lamb every hour. At two and a half hours the lamb was very tender. I wouldn't mind a bit more chew. However if like fall apart lamb, definitely stick to the two and a half hour mark.

Step 8: Ugly Delicious

I suppose I could use some photo tricks and cook this in a black pot, add more Kashmiri chili powder and make this pop more red but that would detract from the truth. This lamb vindaloo is straight up ugly delicious. Like a killer carne guisada or a beef stew, the sea of brown is in fact an ocean of flavor. Cue the rice.

Step 9: Mint Bae

I threw some mint in there to give it a little pop. I mean, I had to try. But you know what? Who cares. As tender as the lamb shoulder came out, it's the gravy that stole the show. So much flavor: rich, spicy and more importantly the heat and aromatic spice profile was balanced with a splash of acidity from the vinegar, and a kick of brown sugar when I finished the sauce. A truly complex dish that is also just as comforting, this lamb vindaloo is the new gold standard. I really hope you try it.      

The Vitals: the spot: Imo's Pizza multiple locations in St. Louis  the eats: St. Louis style pizza the bucks: $13 for a small single topping pie, $25 for a large with all the toppings the full nelson: pizza abomination and beloved local institution

I love my hometown, I really do. Nostalgia rushes through my veins when I come back to St. Louis. There's a charm about a Midwest blue collar city that endures in my soul. It's more than the local landmarks too. Sure, it's fun to see the Arch in your selfie and go to Busch Stadium and see the Cardinals regalia. What really makes St. Louis special is the Midwestern friendliness. Which even extends to a love affair with a pizza style, that simply put, just ain't good. Forgive me St. Louis but I don't love your pizza anymore. Imo's Pizza is a St. Louis institution that has been going strong for nearly six decades. What started out as a little pizza joint in the Hill, a historic Italian American neighborhood, has grown into 100+ locations across three states. The promise of pizza delivered to your door in the early 1960s lead to Imo's growth. In some ways it's like how chains like Domino's came to be: fast, convenient and consistent pizza; though Imo's carries the allure of a local Mom 'n Pop. I was staying in downtown St. Louis a few weeks ago and had to make a stop to Imo's. Apparently their main location was a stone's throw from my Airbnb. My nostalgia was met with immediate modern day gratification. You can order online directly on their website. Within 45 minutes my Imo's feast was about to begin.

Imo's Deluxe pizza

Growing up, I can't say Imo's was part of my family's regular rotation. Trips to Imo's happened more and more in the years after I moved away from St. Louis, when I would visit family and hit up Imo's with old high school friends. And that's how I discovered the deluxe. Sausage, green peppers, mushrooms, onions, bacon and provel cheese combine forces to say a big "FU" to your cardiologist or gym trainer. I don't mind getting over the top every now and then if it's worth it. Sadly, Imo's isn't. At this point non St. Louis folks might be asking what Provel cheese is? According to Imo's website + Wikipedia, Provel cheese is a combo of Provolone, cheddar and swiss along with some emulsifiers which allow it to melt very easily. A modern food marvel perhaps but it ain't better than Mozzarella. In fact it's decidedly worse.

Imo's Sausage Pie

My kid opted for something pretty typical for a kid: single topping pizza and on this day he was feeling sausage. I love sausage on pizza when the seasonings, like fennel seed, really pop. This sausage makes Jimmy Dean taste like Andouille from New Orleans Gumbo Shack. I will say this was by far the best pizza of the bunch. Still, you're stuck with that St. Louis cracker crust whose texture is closer to undercooked frozen pie crust. Oh, and provel doesn't pack much of a flavor wallup. That plus the low melt point makes the cheese behave more like a white sauce. And a bland one at that.

Imo's veggie pizza

This could be the worst pizza I've ever eaten. Mushrooms, onions, green peppers, tomatoes, black olives and provel prove that throwing a salad bar at a pizza monster is a really really bad idea. The tomatoes must have leached out so much water that the ensuing pizza sog was to be deemed inedible by an inebriated Ali Khan. I'm not one to waste food, especially with a few beers in me, but a keg of IPA could not wet my whistle to eat this. Most of this was consumed by the trash can.

I still love you, Imo's.

Imo's pizza is not very good pizza. Nor is St. Louis style pizza, a very good pizza style. And while I'm at it I could throw Chicago deep dish in there too plus the BBQ chicken pizzas from California Pizza Kitchen I ate in the 1990s. The point is bad pizza is out there and people love it anyways. Lately I have been on a pizza Renaissance tour with Neapolitan pies popping up along with some more frequent trips to NYC and East Coast. When I think about the sausage pie we featured in Cheap Eats New Haven, I think any St. Louisian who tried that would throw their arms in the air and say "That is real pizza!" And it's nothing too elegant or foreign. That's "watching football on the couch" pizza as Dave Portnoy would put it. Ultimately none of that matters. For a place like St. Louis, that's maybe seen more that it's fair share bad days than good, I'll let the people rejoice in what they take pride in. It's their thing and it has stuck around.

Eyes wide open. A little.

This last Imo's run has let me look at Whataburger with fresh eyes. Since I moved to Texas, the love affair for Whataburger has truly escaped me. Especially because it comes with an In-N-Out bashing. Whataburger is decidedly inferior to In-N-Out which is more a reflection of Whataburger's ho-hum fast food burger quality than In-N-Out being some sort of shining burger joint on the hill. But Whataburger, like Imo's, is a beloved local joint, it has stuck around and that counts for something. Even when the food doesn't. I'd bookmark Imo's as a true St. Louis eatery that's worth of a visit. I just won't eat there.  

The Vitals: the spot: Anthonino's Taverna 2225 Macklind Ave St. Louis MO 63110 the eats: Toasted Raviolis, anything with meatballs, Cannoli  the bucks: $12-$20 depending on lunch or dinner the full nelson: my go to spot for Toasted Raviolis in St. Louis and really anything Italian American

Classic St. Louis Italian . . . and Greek.

Thanks to a shout out on Twitter, I made my way to Anthonino's Taverna when I was back in St. Louis a few weeks ago. Located in The Hill, a historic Italian American neighborhood of St. Louis, this place has all the authentic feels of OG St. Louis despite opening in 2003. Plus it's been approved by the Mayor of Flavortown; Guy Fieri visited Anthonino's on an episode of Diners, Drive Ins and Dives.

Toasted Raviolis: a St. Louis treasure

Ask anyone who grew up in St. Louis and they will tell you that Toasted Raviolis are the crown jewel of our food culture. Sure, there are smashed burgers joints that have been slapping spatulas to flat tops years before it became a bonafide food trend. And there is the case of the controversial pizza style that I'll be digging into in an upcoming post. But for now I am concentrating on Toasted Raviolis, and Anthonino's are glorious. What makes them great is that they are simply done right. Each ravioli is hand made with a generous filling of beef along with Pecorino and Romano cheese, onion, garlic and spices. Each one was perfectly fried. And that red sauce that will make you scream "madone". Look, I'm not Italian American but I've seen enough episodes of The Sopranos to talk the talk. At least a little.

"did you see those meatballs?"

That's literally what my kid said as we passed a table. The meatballs are huge, moist and straight up divine. I'm pretty sure these are baked vs fried, regardless I knew what I had to order. Also Im currently researching baked meatball recipes too. Cuz baked meatballs>fried meatballs. Seriously.

The Freshman 15

This meatball sandwich could have single handedly put on my summer vacation weight. I'd like to say this sandwich is enough for two but technically three people could live off this sammich, the meatballs are that big. The fries? Yeah I ate them too but you don't need 'em. Being a Taverna I was strongly considering the Gyro but our waitress said that the spit was a bit too fresh. Like Al Pastor or Shawarma, Gyro needs some time to caramelize and since we came at an off hour, the spit hadn't been cooking long enough. Major points for a restaurant whose staff will be that straight up with you.

Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.

Not that was I was exactly starving but since it was vacation, I had to get my sweet tooth on. The waitress, again looking out for us, did mention that the cannoli served is made with pastry shell made elsewhere. It's a good heads up in case you want to avoid a soggy cannoli. Not the case with this one though. It was still one of the best cannolis I have ever had. That includes the Termini Bros in Redding Terminal in Philadelphia. Anthonino's Taverna is a total gem. That's all I got left to say. Huge portions, great quality, and it's a taste of classic St. Louis Italian. It's among the finest Italian joints in St. Louis.

The Vitals: the spot: Trill Foods 415 E. St. Elmo road Austin TX 78745 @vacancy brewing the eats: rotating menu but get meat and veg dishes, think fine dining you can mostly eat with hands the bucks: $8-$12 a person the full nelson: one of my all time fav chefs making fine dining for the masses

Nick Belloni can't quit tortillas. His first food trailer, Trill Taqueria filled a niche of farm to table tacos for breakfast, lunch and dinner until Covid-19 shut him down. With an opportunity to rethink the big picture, he launched Trill Foods, offering more of his Southern Roots to the menu. He still has tacos and tostadas though, because he just can't quit tortillas. And neither can I.

Carnitas tacos

I've eaten countless tacos from Chef Nick and if there is one thing I've learned is that his vegetarian offerings are where it's at. That's not to say he can't cook meat. It's just that his eye and creativity with vegetables is a pure stand out. Restaurants like Odd Duck get deserved credit for being inventive with produce. Nick is just as inventive and Trill is like a quarter of the price. Right, back to the carnitas . . . locally sourced pork, Texas Citrus, bright green cilantro and house made salsas. The star of the show as always is the tortillas he nixtamilizes himself(i.e. grind the corn and turns it into dough).

Tuna Tataki Tostada

Those same great tortillas make for great tostadas too. This is sushi grade ahi tuna on display here on a bed whipped avocado, grilled peaches, togarashi(Japanese spice blend), and cilantro. I tagged this post "fine dining" because of this dish right here. This is the kind of quality level you would expect to find at a place on Resy with a two week wait. Literally as delicious as it is gorgeous.

Lentil and Chorizo Tostada

One will not go hungry if one has lentils. It's the food of my people(shout out to my Bengali/South Asian peeps) and it sticks to your ribs. Chef Nick cooks them in the style of chorizo and adds Oaxacan cheese, serrano chili and cilantro. This is a shareable tostada for sure so I'd order this for a group.

Charred Broccoli Tostada

The Tostada train continues with this charred broccoli tostada. Chef Nick brings out more whipped avocado along with Oaxacan cheese and chili oil. He demanded I get this and he was of course right. Like I said he rocks vegetables and this is the dish that stands out the most. And that's coming from a bonafide carnivore. More than a few recipes as of late suggest to cook vegetables like steak: charring, searing etc. The technique creates that Maillard reaction, a savory crust, and adds umami, elevating what could be have been a side dish to a main dish. I've toyed with this at home and have enjoyed the results. In Nick's hands you have a new go to meatless Monday meal.

Want beer with that?

All of this goes down at Vacancy Brewing and the beers are on point too. Austin might be crowded when it comes to craft beer and tacos but good is good. And Trill? It's the best. Pre pandemic times I used to take food tours to Trill Tacos. Some people loved it, some not so much. I think those that didn't thought they knew what they were getting. A taco at a truck? Not exactly a game changing notion. Then you take a bite and realize that you're being taken out of your comfort zone. Fine dining is about new experiences and challenging expectations. That's what you get at Trill minus the formality and price. Bending the rules and raising the bar is what an ambitious chef lives for. And that's what happens at Trill . . . for like a quarter of the price of his closest competitors. Definitely give Trill Foods a try. The cooking is special and like Guerilla Tacos in Los Angeles, he is offering fine dining for the masses. It's a must visit on my Austin list.

The Vitals: the recipe: Traeger Smoked 'n Simmered beer brats  the smoker: Traeger Ironwood 885 the time: about an hour and a half the full nelson: the best Brat method EVER

I've been Brat obsessed since the tender age of . . . well I don't exactly remember when. But I was a little boy with big dreams of eating all the meats in the butcher's case. Back in the day, my family would shop at our local butcher shop. That's where I first laid eyes on Bratwursts, Italian Sausages, Kielbasa, you name it. I'd get my parents to buy me some veal brat(they didnt eat pork) and we would fry 'em up at home. Years later my food obsessed lifestyle would take me to German Delis, gourmet markets and hipster butcher shops. While it's hard not to tip your cap to a true German sausage specialist for a top shelf brat, I ain't mad at Johnsonville for some reason. They do the job. Especially if you simmer them in cheap beer. And while you're at it, break out the Traeger.

Brats > Hot Dogs

It's hard not to argue that hot dogs are the simplest thing to cook on the grill. I mean, you're not even cooking, you're just reheating. Thing is, Brats > Hot Dogs and the extra effort is frankly more relaxing because you have more time to sip on a beer. And it's about as cheap as hot dogs too if the kind of dogs you're springing for are of the Boar's Head or Hebrew National variety.

Smoke your sausage

I smoked these brats for about an hour at 225 degrees. I use a Traeger 885 Ironwood which has this super smoke feature and I like to use it every chance I get. When it comes to making proper barbecue like ribs, I'll break out a smoker tube to really drive the point home but these brats only need a kiss of smoke, a chef's kiss even. I smoke these for about an hour though you could cut that in half if you're running short on time as it's going to cook more in the simmer process.

Break out the cast iron skillet

Like burgers, a cast iron skillet is your sausage's best friend. Like the one from summer camp that you finally reconnected with on Facebook and is now, like kinda weird. Well, actually nothing like that at all, because you're not friends with a pan. Ok, back to the method. Melt some butter and beer in the pan to a simmer. Now drop the links.

The Wisconsin Method

Years ago I came across this method of simmering the brats in butter and beer as part of a Wisconsin tailgate tradition. I've dubbed it the Wisconsin Method ever since. Actually I dubbed it that pretty much just now. But trust me, I've been to Milwaukee and I'm pretty sure some genius that's 6 or 7 Old Styles deep, making sweatshirts with Wisconsin Method ironed on as I type this. Oh right, back to cooking Brats. Look, you cook these till they look good. I'd ballpark it as 10-2o minutes depending on the size of the link and how long you smoked it. For safety, use a instant read thermometer and pull them when they hit an internal temp of 165 degrees.

Crisp 'em up for the finish

What's nice about the simmer is that you can hold the sausages warm without drying them out too much. When you're ready to serve, toss them on a grill or even a pan to crisp them up. It will only take a few minutes. Then get the buns, mustard and kraut ready.

Smoke 'n Simmer: best of both worlds.

This is such a fun and easy way to use a pellet grill like a Traeger. And while you could do this all on the grill, you could also just smoke them on the grill and do the rest over the stove. Any grill will work but clearly one that incorporates smoke will yield the best results too. I also find this method is a great way to dress up supermarket level brats like Johnsonville but you could try anything. In fact, I bet there is a little boy in a hipster butcher shop somewhere in Brooklyn, looking at some sustainably raised Duroc or Kurobuta pork brats wondering how his mom will cook them. Winona, if you can hear me . . . try the Ali Khan Smoked n Simmered method. Just keep the mustard ballpark style. Somethings are simply timeless. Thanks for bearing with me while I got weird with the humor in this one. If you liked it, comment below!    

The Vitals: the spot: T-Loc's  5000 Burnet Rd. Austin TX 78756 the eats: Sonoran Style Hot Dogs, Carne Asada fries, tacos, burritos and more the bucks: $5-$12 the full nelson: straight outta Tucson with real deal Sonoran Style Hot Dogs

Who let the dogs out?

T-Loc's did, that's who. But before we get into all that I feel like I need to let you all in on a little secret: Hotdogs are my kryptonite! More often than not, when it comes to tubesteaks I'll take a hard pass. This is especially true for loaded dogs. Are there exceptions? Heck yes and I'll mention Dave's Dogs from Cheap Eats Santa Barbara as a truly special exception. My man Dave can load up a dog, but rather than overload it with salty meat goodness, Dave seeks to strike balance by adding contrasting flavors. This flavor combo of complexity is the saviour of any loaded dog when it comes to the true blue gourmand's palate. And there happens to be a maestro of that caliber running a truck/trailer in Austin TX. His spot is T-Loc's and I'm loco for Chef Miguel Kaiser's elevated grub.

Miguel dreams of hot dogs

If Jiro Ono dreams of sushi, then Miguel Kaiser dreams of hot dogs. That's certainly the case now as he is currently in his seventh year of operating T-Loc's Sonoran Hot Dogs and Street food, a food trailer in Austin along with his partner Zulma Nataren. But was Miguel always dreaming of hot dogs? Definitely in his youth when he was growing up in Tucson, AZ. Tucson could be considered the capital of Sonoran style hot dogs on this side of the border. This might beg the question from some of you: what exactly is a Sonoran Style Hot Dog?

Sonoran Style Hot Dog 101

Look carefully at the upper lefthand corner of the menu and you'll see the Sonoran Hot Dog breakdown. Spoiler alert: it's all about toppings. A special bun that T-Loc's ships out from a bakery in Tucson is the bed for this bevy of toppings. A bacon wrapped hot dog takes a seat on the bun followed by pinto beans, diced onion and tomato, jalapeño sauce, yellow mustard and mayo. Spicy, salty, juicy, tart, filling and it's all so damn epic.

Ali Khan Eats approved

I'll say it again: I pretty much hate hot dogs but I'll make an exception for this one and give it my fist bump/cocktail bump. The toppings and the flavor contrast make the meal, kinda like a Chicago Dog. But make no mistake this is Sonora all day. It should be worth noting that yes, this hot dog style is a gift from Mexican immigrants from Sonora who started selling them in Tucson. Now I have had plenty of bacon wrapped dogs in LA, also known as TJ style dogs, but the bun and the precision layering of toppings makes Sonora style, particularly T-Loc's rendition, a total standout.

Sonoran Style Hot Dog remix

Even though Sonoran style dogs are steeped in tradition, Chef Miguel is an innovator. Recently I was invited to a pop up with T-Loc's and Wunderoot/Bolthouse Farms. Here Chef Miguel used roasted carrots with particular flavors in lieu of a traditional hot dog. Now I'm not big meat substitute guy(duh), but I certainly appreciate and partake in eating vegetables. Call me crazy but I don't want to keel over and die before I'm 50.

Better than plant based: just plants

What's cool about these "hot dogs" is that they're literally just roasted carrots versus some chopped up and reformed thing (McRib anyone?)  It's a far easier ask for me to eat vegetables than pretend that the vegetable is some kind of meat. I mean, let's just be real about that. That secret sauce to making it all work is what Miguel puts in toppings wise. You already know about the Sonora Style, the other two are a chorizo and an italian "sausage". For the chorizo, Chef Miguel contrast the spicy "sausage" with crisp coleslaw and bbq sauce. While those toppings aren't typically out of the norm for loaded dogs, BBQ sauce is far more interesting on a roasted carrot than an actual chorizo link. The Italian "sausage" gets hit with arugula and a spicy carrot vinaigrette. Named the hipster, I was least keen on this. Chalk it up to being in your 40s I guess.

Come for the dogs, come back for Chef Miguel

T-Loc's is Chef Miguel's muse. Yes, it's the spot to get a legit Sonoran Style Dog in Austin whether at the food truck or at Q2 stadium(where Austin FC plays). But it's all about a guy who trained at the Culinary Institute of America, interned Per Se, one of the most celebrated restaurants in the country yet focuses on food that can be appreciated by anybody and everybody. If Cheap Eats rolled back into Austin, T-Loc's would be a slam dunk. And the best part? I didn't even get to tell you about his carne asada fries. Literally . . . stay tuned. PS: He will be giving away FREE DOGS July 4th weekend and July 9-11.  

The Vitals: the recipe: Traeger Baby Back Ribs Vol 5 the smoker: Traeger Ironwood 885 the time: about 3 hours the full nelson: easiest traeger ribs yet

I don't know why I started my focus on Traeger mastery with ribs. Maybe it's because brisket takes way too long? Or that salmon just comes out so darn good like every time and there's not that much to master? Whatever the reason, I am committed to figuring ribs out and I think I might really be on to something here.

Use the best meat possible

In previous cooks, most notably Operation Traeger Baby Back Ribs Vol 3, I've used average quality meat. Look, I shop at the regular grocery store aplenty. But over the last year, where our dining out dollars shifted to home cooking, we have opted to shop at higher end shops. In some cases, the difference is extremely noticeable such as produce. This time I went to Salt & Time, a top shelf butcher shop in Austin TX for my ribs. Sure, these cost double what I would pay at say Costco, but one good rack was all I needed. Believe me, it was worth every penny.  

Pro Tips from Sasquatch BBQ

I enlisted the help of Sasquatch BBQ aka Matt Crawford. Matt is a BBQ pitmaster, Traeger advocate and all around good dude. A fellow Traeger sponsor, Matt is an accomplished Barbecue chef and has no shortage of advice when it comes to smoking on a Traeger or any smoker for that matter. Sasquatch recommended I hit the ribs with some yellow mustard and then the rub. He said the mustard was mostly for making sure the rub sticks and this is backed by a number of recipes. I totally caught the taste of mustard and I strongly suggest you do the same.

3 hour ribs

In previous cooks, I've spent up to 8 hours making ribs that were just on the verge of being smokey. I've used smoker tubes, apple juice spritz, and the "Super Smoke method": a feature on Traeger models like my Ironwood 885. The conclusion I have come to is that the time and effort just wasn't worth it when it came achieving a true smoked rib taste. So I asked Sasquatch for a faster method.

Set your Traeger to 275

Sasquatch had me set my grill to 275. Once it came to temp, I gave it a good 15 minutes before I laid the rack on there. I cooked it till the internal temp hit 165, which took about an hour and a half. Then, like many cooks before, I foil wrapped the rack in butter, brown sugar and more rub. He did suggest some apple cider vinegar but I skipped that as I was out. Then back into the grill till we hit 190, which took another hour and a half.

Cook first, then smoke.

After the rack hit 190, I opened up the foil and sauced it up. Once again I reached for a bottle of Aaron Franklin's BBQ sauce. The taste is classic Kansas City, thick, sweet and tangy, despite the word Texas prominently displayed. After saucing, I lowered the temp of the grill t0 225 degrees and hit it with the Super Smoke feature. This was to let the sauce the set, which takes about 10 minutes. I let it ride a little longer for sh*** and giggles.

And the verdict is . . .

I think these are tied for the best ribs I've made along with Vol 2. While that version was smokier, it also took 8+ hours whereas this only took 3+ hours. Mustard was a welcomed addition to Vol 5 and the meat quality from Salt and Time was outstanding. Traeger is known for a clean taste so the quality of your meat stands out. This can work conversely too. If you get that rack that has an off smell when you take it out of the plastic, don't expect the smoke to mask that funk. Frankly that's gross and I'm done with those days. I'd rather eat less and have better quality that a fridge full of leftover jank ribs. Now the only real flaw here is that I didn't eat them ASAP. We had friends coming over and a game to watch so I made these ribs ahead if time and held them in the oven. Baby Backs can dry out and while these weren't dry, I can only imagine them tasting better had I eaten them sooner. Regardless, as I type this I'm going to totally make this again and compare with a second rack cooked lower and slower to compare. For now though the takeaway and technique is this: high quality meat and mustard rub. A Traeger is a handy device but it can't create all the flavors, that's also on you, your pantry and your butcher.